Capoliveri is on a hill covered in agaves and prickly pears near Mount Calamita,
its long history is found in the intense azure blue sea and the simplicity of its
beauty.
Set in a strategic position on a terraced hill, the town of Capolivri started life
as a highland fortress during the Etruscan era, it still dominates the Mola
and Stella gulfs.
Historically Capoliveri is one the richest places on Elba, it was
an Etruscan settlement: many finds have been made in the necropolis of Profico not
far from the historic centre. The borough is collected around the square and Via
Roma, a road in the highest part rich in local shops. From here lots of lanes, small
squares and alleys with underpasses, arches and stairs. Once called Caput Liberum,
then surrounded by walls it was the islands oldest fortified city: for about four
centuries it was the Marine Republic of Pisa’s centre for fiscal
and political control.
During the first half of the 17th century Capoliveri was attacked several times
by pirates who destroyed the walls right down to the foundations and further, at
the beginning of the 18th century it was the theatre of a cruel battle between the
French and Spanish armies. During the revolutionary period Elba became French and
it was then chosen by Napoleon for his exile. With regard to this,
the people of Capoliveri love to tell the story about Napoleon intention to destroy
the town because he was irritated by the lack of tribute paid by the inhabitants
to himself, he changed his mind thanks to the beauty of Amelia Vantini,
a young woman of Capoliveri.
During the first half of the 17th century Capoliveri was attacked several times
by pirates who destroyed the walls right down to the foundations and further, at
the beginning of the 18th century it was the theatre of a cruel battle between the
French and Spanish armies. During the revolutionary period Elba became French and
it was then chosen by Napoleon for his exile. With regard to this, the people of
Capoliveri love to tell the story about Napoleon intention to destroy the town because
he was irritated by the lack of tribute paid by the inhabitants to himself, he changed
his mind thanks to the beauty of Amelia Vantini, a young woman of Capoliveri.
The efficiency of the Lorraine administration meant the rebirth of Capoliveri, this
was thanks to the production of good quality wine (Aeatico,
Muscat, Sangiovese) and thanks to the production of
iron ore at Calamita point and in the Ginepro bay. Half way through the 19th century
the miners started the first struggles for better pay: this was an important contribution
to the birth of a union conscience. In 1907 it became an autonomous town. You can
get to the now abandoned mines at Calamita point along a panoramic road, high above
the sea. Another interesting scenic excursion is to Innamorata bay to the south
of the town. To the south-west is the 16th century Madonna delle Grazie Sanctury
where we can see a small painting of the Madonna del Silenzio by Marcello Venusti.
Behind Lacona bay is the small Madonna della Neve Church
founded by some disciples of Saint Giovanni Gualberto.
Saint Michele church is in Romanesque-Pisan style and it is set
in a position where we can see Mola plain and Porto Azzurro gulf.
Destroyed by Barbarossa’s troops in the first half of the 16th century, the church
was never completely reconstructed, but was used as a cemetery. A storm forced
Pope Gregory XI, who was returning from Avignon, to stop on Elba and
he celebrated mass here.
Also worth a visit is the Alfeo Ricci Collection with minerals
of a unique beauty and rarity that come from various parts of the island. Finally
another legend is worth a mention, the Innamorata festival which is held on 14th
July. A historic procession every year reminds us of the tragic love story of Maria
and Lorenzo two young people of Capoliveri.